Moorish Tides

American Journeys in Tangier & Beyond
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An Octopus fished from the sea. Photo by Max Ablicki.
Letters

Consider the Octopus

Never once did I think that I’d be spending an evening riding around in a cab with a dead fish and a very live octopus in a plastic bag, but,…

Grace Scanlon in the Sahara
Letters

Let Me Spread My Wings

“You and Ohana Will Always Be In My Heart” say the two bracelets you gave me before I caught my plane for Morocco. I remember the tears pouring down your…

Profiles

Hypnotized in Tangier

When I was 10 years old I lost the person I looked up to most in life, my grandfather. He was the rock of our family, an avid outdoorsman and…

My Letter to a Stray Dog

“How could anyone let this happen to you?” I thought. So far Moroccans have always been friendly to me. They’ll invite us strangers into the comfort of their home, sit…

A picture of a watercolor purchased in the Tangier medina.

The Watercolor

We stood outside one of the Kasbah gates as a bright and washed-out Tangier spread out before us. We had just finished up tea and juice after having been, once…

Two Farm Boys

It’s early in the morning just north of Rabat, and a little boy is standing on a pile of dirt, watching the high-speed train gun through the outskirts of his…

The Wiles of Poseidon

Do you believe in destiny? I don’t. Or, at least, I didn’t think I did when I was staring down at the green water below me and pondering the legend…

Cliff Hike

My nightmare of being stuck in a prison cell faded as I slowly woke up, revealing my cold, uncovered leg dangling off the side of my top bunk bed. Just…

Traveling Through Time

Traveling around the world is one of my passions, but traveling through time is one of my dreams. I’ve dreamed of walking around Versailles at the time of Louis the…

Caitlyn and Rania sitting beneath a palm tree.

A Spiritual Journey

When I decided to come to Morocco, some of my family members were worried. “You know it’s a Muslim country, right?” some said. “And Muslims don’t like Jews.” I thanked…

Reflections of a Petri Dish Child

When I first looked into the eyes of Imane, I saw a woman who is on fire. Her fierce advocacy of the natural birthing process and breastfeeding got me reflecting…

Medina in Tangier where Abdul's store is located.

Abdul’s American Love Story

Stories being the best teacher, within a few days of arriving in Tangier, I set out on a quest to uncover the everyday struggles and joys of a single Tanjawi,…