Student reading from Si Yussef in Smara

A Love Letter to Tangier

The mist began to dampen my face as we began on our walk to Café Smara, a Tangier café made famous by the novel Si Yussef. We walked down what…

An American Historian in Tangier

There’s a gesture that sums up the people of Tangier. When responding to a compliment or expressing an earnest emotion, the Tangerois tap their palms against their upper chests, right…

Letter from Professor Bruce Lawrence

I love Morocco. It is a country I’ve visited often since the early 1980s, and just last summer I went to the wedding of a good friend in Marrakesh. Most…

My Mother Among Muslims

My Mother Among Muslims

The day that my mom called me to tell me that she had booked a flight to Morocco, my heart just about stopped. “You did what?”  I just couldn’t believe…

Pascual De Cabo

Pascual De Cabo & My Grandfather

In a way, entering the Medina Art Gallery in Tangier felt almost like stepping back to the United States because the air in the gallery was just as stale and…

Reading paper with cigar in Cafe de Paris

The Gran Café de Paris

Mirrored walls surround the patrons scattered about mostly on the edges of leather booths. Each guest grips their own cup of freshly-squeezed orange juice, coffee, or mint tea with freshly…

Riding a camel into the Moroccan desert

Freedom in the Sahara

I felt the sand between my toes and turned to take in the endless hills that met the edge of the setting sky. I couldn’t hear the loud cheers behind…

Chaouen street

A Feeling of Toska in Chefchaouen

Landscapes have a funny way of evoking emotions in the people who traverse them. According to The Book of Human Emotions, the Russian word toska is one such phenomenon. Toska is…

A stray near the beach in Tangier

The Strays of Tangier

It all started on our third day in Tangier when we went on a scavenger hunt into the Medina. To escape the stress of the hunt, I spotted a pet…

Marrakech souk

A Pharmacy in Marrakech

“I’m different,” Ayub insisted. “I’m not about money; I’m about experience.”